词条 | Dr.martens |
释义 | Dr. Martens简介Dr. Martens这双粗犷的工作鞋今年五十岁了,然而它却一定不老,反而成为年轻人的潮品。Dr. Martens最初于1960年由德国的Klaus Martens创立,在英国的南安普顿生产。 上世纪七八十年代,Dr. Martens成为朋克、光头党和New Wave新浪潮等的最爱,他们穿着它与机车夹克、牛仔,脸上带着讥笑表情。 今天,Dr. Martens是潮流必备单品,Agyness Deyn有好几双,Madonna麦当娜的女儿Alice Dellal也经常穿着。 Dr. Martens来历马丁靴充满了传奇色彩。早在1945年的德国,一位叫Dr. Klaus Maertens的医生和他的朋友Dr. Herbert Funck在阿尔卑斯山滑雪,不慎摔伤了脚,在康复过程中,为了使自己走路轻松些,马丁斯博士和他的朋友设计了一种看起来很粗鲁,但非常舒适的靴子来穿。不出两年,这种设计便在德国注册,专为那些年老有腿疾或腰痛的德国妇女生产保健鞋。到1959年,这种鞋在整个欧洲都十分畅销。于是,朋友俩决定把这种设计卖给英国Wollaston的一个企业R. Griggs,该集团在生工作鞋和军用靴方面历史悠久,技艺精湛。1960年4月1日,Dr. Martens于英国的Northamptonshire踏出了第一步。首个设计,就是8孔的1460款式。这个款式,本来是为Docklands巡警而设计的。它那实而不华的设计,尤其鞋边黄色针步及独特的鞋印图案,当年大获好评,所以顺理成章推出市场,并成为了不同年代的潮流文化标记。这种靴的关键在于鞋底。它既十分柔韧又十分耐穿,而且耐油、耐酸、耐碱、耐腐蚀。20世纪80年代,时装设计师又把马丁博士带进了时装表演,顿时,马丁博士的靴子成为时装新潮。此外,Dr. Martens的Air Wair鞋底设计,舒服耐用,多年来一直是吸引人们的原因。在现代的时尚圈,Dr.Martens的靴子被公认全世界最舒适的靴子,并且外型经典,成很多靴子爱好者的必备收藏品。发展至现在,Dr. Martens除了鞋履外,还推出服装、文具、包等。在英国,几乎没有任何一位男士不认识这个经典牌子。 官方介绍英文版When the Dr. Martens boot first catapulted from a working-class essential to a counter-cultural icon back in the 1960s, the world was pre-internet, pre-MTV, pre-CD, pre-mp3s, pre-mobile phones... hey, they'd only just invented the teenager. In the years before the boot's birthday, 1st April, 1960, kids just looked like tribute acts to their parents, younger but the same. Rebellion was only just on the agenda for some - for most kids of the day, starved of music, fashion, art and choice, it was not even an option. But then an unlikely union of two kindred spirits in distinctly different countries ignited a phenomenon. In Munich, Germany, Dr Klaus Maertens had a garage full of inventions, including a shoe sole almost literally made of air; in Northampton, England, the Griggs family had a history of making quality footwear and their heads were full of ideas. They met, like a classic band audition, through an advert in the classified pages of a magazine. A marriage was born, an icon conceived of innovation and self-expression. Together they took risks. They jointly created a boot that defined comfort but was practical, hard-wearing and a design classic. At first, like some viral infection, the so-called 1460 stooped near to the ground, kept a low profile, a quiet revolution. But then something incredible started to happen. The postmen, factory workers and transport unions who had initially bought the boot by the thousand, were joined by rejects, outcasts and rebels from the fringes of society. At first, it was the working-classes; before long it was the masses. Skinheads were the first subculture to adopt the boot in the early 1960s, spilling out of the East End of London, then across Britain and the world; initially non-racist and obsessive about their fashion, by the time the skinhead movement was corrupted with elements of right-wing extremism, Dr Martens had already morphed into a torchbearer for a brave new world. The late 1960s and 1970s saw the boot adopted by - not thrust upon - nearly all the 'tribes': Mods, glam, punks, ska, psychobillies, grebos, Goths, industrialists, nu-metal, hardcore, straight-edge, grunge, Britpop... Then pop started to eat itself. The internet spread like an epidemic, reaching fifty million users in eighteen months - a feat that took radio forty years. The first mobile phone text was sent in 1992; within three years, email was like oxygen. Everything had changed. There were no tribes anymore. At least, "not like they used to make 'em." You don't see one tribe fighting another anymore, a haircut does not define a person to four albums by three bands. The tribe is down to one person. You. A one-man army. The personal revolution manifests itself in a million ways. So-called 'indie' and 'punk' record labels of the 1970s and 1980s were created to cut out the suits. They were called 'labels' because of the round adhesive label smack bang in the middle of the vinyl. Vinyl? CDs? Now, you don't even need a label. Record, mix, master and post on the web from your own empire. Hit the charts from downloads alone. There is no one left to cut out. It's all down to you. Of course, just because we can all now 'create', doesn't mean we are all actually any good. But the cream floats to the top, whatever the mode of transport. Same with Dr. Martens. Decades have come and gone, brands have exploded and then imploded, but the 1460 is still there, unique, individual, original. Anti-fashion defined in eight holes. What's seen as information overload to the older generation is just everyday surfing to the new generation. In one weekend edition of The New York Times, there is more information than a seventeenth century man was exposed to in his entire life. Dr. Martens haven't been around since the 1600s, but in terms of 钬?brands' that mean something, that last, that reinvent and evolve, they pre-date pretty much everything. By the mid-1990s, Dr. Martens had festered in the minds of youth without a single penny of 'marketing spend', longer than the majority of global brands had even existed. There is no comparison. This is not a brand, it is a way of thinking, a mode of expression. The problem with 'brands' is that they dictate. They might offer the must-have item of the season, but they design it, shape it, form it and sell it. You have no say, other than handing over your money. Look at the word: 'brand'. That's what they do to cattle. Rebel. Create your own brand. Dr. Martens have always been different. No other brand has been mutated, customised, fucked up and freaked out like DM's. Without asking or being able to stop it. It happened to them. They were just fascinated bystanders on a journey that has raced through every crevice of subculture, every twist and turn of youthful creativity and now, here, with a generation who have always had email, mp3s and downloads, it is as relevant and vibrant as ever. Because although the tribes no longer stride through London or New York, although individuality is the music for the masses, although fashion is just another way of defining yourself, the Dr. Martens 'brand' has come full circle, it is a blank canvas on which a generation can paint their personality. You can wear your grunge shorts, your emo hair, your punk tatts, your metal piercings and your pride on your sleeve, all at the same time, there are no limits, no boundaries, no pigeon-holes to fit into. To be creative sometimes you have to rebel. To rebel you have to have something to rebel against. Driving fast, drinking cheap beer and smashing windows isn't rebellion. The best form of rebellion is individualism. Thinking for yourself. Information overload is the most fantastic element of modern life. You can have it all. You don't need to align yourself with one band, one tribe, one venue, one gig; you can share your console with a complete stranger twenty thousand miles away; you can post your demo on a site that has a greater population than most countries. But you need anchors in this sea of creativity. You need things you can rely on. Things you can recruit to your army. Friends, whether they add you or not. Tunes loaded, down. Ideas loaded, up. Fashions that express. Possessions that matter. Things that inspire self-expression, not commodities that spoon-feed an identity. Dr. Martens anchor you, liberate your creativity, inspire and fuel your identity. Our heritage fits your future; your future is our future. 中文版当第一次启动一跃马滕斯博士从工人阶级必不可少的反文化偶像,在20世纪60年代,世界前互联网,预MTV音乐台,预光盘,预MP3歌曲,预先移动电话.. 。嘿,他们会才刚刚发明的少年。在几年前启动的生日,1960年4月1号,孩子只是看着像他们的父母致敬行为,但同样年轻。叛乱被刚上的一些议程只 - 对于大多数的孩子在一天的音乐,时尚,艺术和选择饿死,它甚至不是一种选择。 但后来一两个志同道合的国家不可能在完全不同的联盟点燃的现象。 在慕尼黑,德国,克劳斯博士梅尔滕斯了包括鞋底几乎从字面上的空气使车库发明充分;在北安普顿,英国,格里格斯家有鞋的制作质量和他们的头被充满创意的历史。他们见面,就像一个乐队的经典面试通过广告,在一本杂志的分类页面。婚姻是出生,创新和自我表达的构思一个图标。 他们一起冒着危险。 他们共同创造了舒适的定义,但很实用,耐磨损和一个经典设计引导。起初,像一些病毒感染,即所谓的1460弯腰靠近地面,保持低姿态,一场静悄悄的革命。 但后来发生的事情令人难以置信的开始。 邮差,工厂工人和运输谁最初购买千引导工会,也加入了拒绝,从社会的边缘弃儿和反政府武装。 首先,它是工薪阶层,没多久,这是群众。 光头党是第一个采用亚文化在60年代初启动,溢出的伦敦东区出来,然后在英国,对世界最初的非种族主义和关于他们的时尚迷恋,由光头运动的损坏时间的元素右翼极端主义,马滕斯医生已经蜕变成火炬手为一个勇敢的新世界。 60年代末和70年代,启动的通过 - 而不是强加 - 几乎所有的'部落':MODS的华丽,朋克,斯卡,psychobillies,grebos,哥特人,企业家,女,金属,硬核,直边,垃圾,英伦摇滚... 然后弹出开始吃自己。 像传染病一样蔓延互联网,达到五千万用户在十八个月 - 一个壮举,广播用了四十多年。第一移动电话发送文本1992年三年内,电子邮件像氧气。一切都变了。 目前还没有部落了。至少,“不喜欢他们用来制造它们。” 你不会看到一个部落的战斗另一个了,理发没有定义一个人的乐队由三至四个专辑。 这个部落已经降到了一个人。 你。 一个人的军队。 革命的个人表现在一万元的方式本身。所谓'独立'和'朋克'的20世纪70年代和80年代唱片公司的建立是为了削减了西装。因为他们被称为圆不干胶标签'标签'嫌在乙烯中间爆炸。 乙烯? CD吗? 现在,你甚至不需要一个标签。 记录,混合,硕士,就从你自己的帝国网站发布。 打从下载单独的图表。 有没有人留下来裁剪。这一切都落在你身上。 当然,仅仅因为我们现在都'创造',这并不意味着我们实际上都没有益处。但奶油浮到顶部,无论运输方式。 同样的,马滕斯博士。 几十年来来去去,品牌已经爆炸,然后引爆,但1460年仍然存在,独特的,个人,原始。反时尚的定义在八洞。 最新的信息超载对老一辈看到的只是每天上网的一代新人。于一体的纽约时报周末版节目,还有更多的信息多于十七世纪的人暴露在他的整个生活。马滕斯博士尚未出现自17世纪,但在钬?品牌'这意味着什么,那最后的改造和发展,他们早于几乎所有条款。 到了90年代中期,有溃烂马滕斯博士在青年心中没有一个一分钱的营销花费,超过了全球大多数品牌,甚至存在。没有比较。这不是一个品牌,它是一种思想,一种表达方式方法。 用'品牌'的问题是,他们支配。他们可能会提供必须具备的项目 季节,但他们设计的,它的形状,形式和出售。你有没有发言权,你的钱比其他移交。看看这个词:'品牌'。这就是他们做的牛。 叛乱。 创建自己的品牌。 马滕斯博士一直是不同的。没有其他品牌已突变,个性化,性交和不祥的感觉像DM的了。不问或能阻止它。它发生在他们身上。他们只是着迷的旅程已经通过各种比赛的亚文化,每一个扭曲和创造力的年轻缝隙转,现在,这里一直有一个谁电子邮件,下载MP3和一代,旁观者,这是由于没有相关的和以往一样充满活力。 因为虽然没有通过部落伦敦或纽约时间跨度,但个性是为群众音乐,虽然风只是自己的另一种定义方式,马滕斯博士'品牌'来了一圈,这是一个空白的画布这一代人可以画自己的个性。你可以穿短裤的垃圾,你的情绪的头发,你朋克tatts,您的金属穿孔放在你的袖子,在同一时间所有的骄傲,没有任何限制,没有界限,没有鸽子洞适应。 为了要有创意,有时你必须反抗。 要反叛你必须有什么反抗。 开快车,喝廉价的啤酒,打破Windows不是叛乱。叛乱的最好形式是个人主义。为自己的思考。 信息超载是现代生活中最精彩的元素。你可以拥有一切。你并不需要将一个乐队,一个部落,一个场地,一个演出你自己,你可以分享你的一个完全陌生的控制台二万英里吧,你可以发布的网站上,有一个更大的人口比你演示最国家。 但是你需要在这个创意海锚。 你需要的东西,你可以依靠。 事情你可以招募到你的军队。 朋友们,无论他们加入你的钱。 曲调加载下来。 思想载入了。 时尚的表达。 财产这一问题。 事情激发自我表现,而不是商品,填鸭式的饲料身份。 马滕斯博士锚你,解放你的创造力,激发和燃料你的身份。我们的传统适合你的未来,你的未来是我们的未来。 Dr. Martens穿法古典穿法:随意的挽起一截裤腿,长短随便。另外把靴子的高帮放了下来,鞋带穿到第7个孔或第8个孔,然后不用扎紧鞋带,随意系一下就好了,然后把鞋帮和鞋舌都翻下来。。 这种穿法就很街头的感觉,而且可以用垮裤来搭配,而不用像前面那样穿非常紧的裤子。 方法1: 可以搭配 黑色夹克 和格子的MINI裙 是最传统和容易搭配的方法 方法2: 搭配雪纺的料子 就很可爱 而且甜美度也能上升好多 方法3: 搭配可爱的紧身裤子 和 亮色系连身的裙等长款衫也是十分不错的选择。 方法4: 可爱的骷髅图片 COOL味十足+马丁靴 个性立现 方法5: 搭配出类似KARE那种的 PUNK个性味道十足的 搭配时候不要拘泥传统 很多款式的衣服都能融合其中 方法6: 中长丝袜搭配马丁靴 早期的男性朋克族喜欢穿黑色的紧身裤和马丁博士靴,而女性们则喜欢穿廉价的网纹长筒丝袜和超短裙,现在的潮流则是很好地把这两者结合在了一起,而且色彩变得更加丰富和更加阳光。彩色的条纹长筒袜、印花的连袜裤、破碎的网纹丝袜都是现代朋克族少女们的最爱。在日本人气电影《NANA》中,主人公娜娜就是一身黑色的长筒丝袜加靴子的打扮,帅气至极。 PS:化妆也要相对注意PUNK的就要上个小的烟熏 想打造甜美感觉不防 搭配上可爱的微卷发型 增加甜美度 类似方法5的不防化个自然装 那样即能突出衣服搭配的效果 也不会显的过头 中意马丁的明星 艾薇儿(Avril Lavigne):马丁靴也是艾薇儿喜欢的鞋款。想成为她这种蜜糖摇滚派的MM们,可以穿上马丁靴搭配格纹短裙和休闲背心。演绎属于自己的摇滚风格。阿格妮丝-迪恩(Agyness Deyn):Agyness 十分喜欢用马丁靴来搭配修身牛仔裤。挽起的裤脚,显得男孩气十足。上衣选择宽大而帅气的西装外套,十分有型。喜欢中性打扮的MM不妨尝试一下 黛西-罗易 (Daisy Lowe):脚上亮粉色的马丁靴,色彩跳跃,惹人喜爱。如果你不想让自己看上去太过非主流,那就学Daisy一样,用黑白灰来进行搭配。既休闲又时尚哟。 |
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